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Health & Fitness

Jake's Surf Shot

 

A drawing of this legendary Ron Stoner photo has been hanging in my living room my entire life.  This photo made me a surfer before I had ever surfed.  When I could barely walk or talk I knew, when I looked at the picture, that this would be my future.  My brother and I would argue about which one of us was hypothetically riding the wave get cheered on by our father (who looks like the guy knee paddling in the foreground).  This photo told me before I ever stepped on a board that surfing would give me the feelings and emotions depicted in this scene.  I will always be that surfer on the wave getting cheered on by my dad. 

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